The Drive: Over the Spine of the Mountains
Most visitors to Tuscany stick to the rolling hills of the south, but if you are staying in one of our houses in Northern Tuscany, you have access to something far more dramatic. This is a journey from the white marble ‘glaciers’ of the Apuan Alps down to the crystal waters of the Ligurian coast.
Leave Castelnuovo di Garfagnana and take the SP13. This is a spectacular mountain road that takes you from lush chestnut forests to the towering white cliffs of the marble quarries in the Carrara marble mountains, the source of the stone used for Michelangelo’s David.
- Isola Santa: Your first stop is this 11th century stone village ‘hidden’ on the edge of a vibrant emerald lake. Walk through the narrow lanes to the old church and capture the reflections of the mountains in the water. The church, dedicated to San Jacopo (Saint James), was a key stop on the Volto Santo pilgrimage route, which linked northern Europe to Lucca. If you have time for a detour, head up the hill to La Ceragetta Ristorante for traditional food and some of the best views in the Garfagnana.
- The Street Art Quarry: Before you hit the main tunnel, keep an eye out for a roadside quarry that has been reclaimed by street art. It’s a surreal contrast—modern murals against ancient stone.
- The Reveal: After passing through the old tunnel, the view opens up completely. On a clear day, the marble mountains drop away to reveal the glittering Mediterranean coastline.
- The road to the coast: The descent toward the coast is where the drama really happens. As you snake down from the high passes, you’ll pass through several ‘vertical’ mountain villages clinging to the slopes. Instead of rushing for the beach, pull over at one of the modest roadside cafés in a village like Arni or Levigliani. Grab a coffee (it will likely be the best €1.20 you spend all day), take a seat outside, and watch the local rhythm. These villages are home to several unassuming mountain restaurants where the ‘tourist menu’ doesn’t exist. You’ll eat simply and authentically for great value.
A Hidden Oasis: Laghetto dei Tritoni
Forget the crowded industrial tours. We recommend visiting the Valsora Quarry. It’s a stone amphitheatre that has taken on a second life. In the heart of the quarry lies the Laghetto dei Tritoni, a vibrant lake that has naturally formed in the industrial void. It’s now a sanctuary for the rare Alpine Newt!
Coastal Reward: Lerici & Tellaro
Continue winding down the mountain until you reach Carrara, then head for the coast. While most tourists flock to the Cinque Terre, we prefer Lerici. Known as the ‘Gulf of Poets”, it was the haunt of Byron and Shelley.
- The Local’s Aperitivo: Skip the overpriced cafes on the main square and head to the far end of the promenade.
- La Baracchetta: A simple, no-frills wine shack serving local pours.
- Chiosco di Lerici-Frutti di Mare: Right next door for fresh oysters. Grab your drink and sit on the stone steps leading into town.
- The Secret Passage: Look for the Tunnel Pedonale Lerici. This pedestrian tunnel cuts right through the castle rock. It’s a local lifesaver in the summer because it stays naturally cool. It brings you out at a small beach on the other side.
Where to Eat: Osteria Al Vicolo (Lerici)
For a real experience, skip the tourist menus. We head to Osteria Al Vicolo. It is run by a no-nonsense Italian lady who defines the word authentic.
- The Vibe: One menu. No discussion. You eat what is fresh that day.
- The Food: Incredible local seafood at very reasonable prices.
- The Rule: It’s popular with locals and the service is only in Italian. It’s a ‘what you see is what you get’ establishment—exactly the kind of place we’ve spent the last 35 years discovering.
Beach Tip & Villages
- Fiascherino: If you want a dip, head to this tiny cove. It’s free to access with crystal blue water, but it is small—on weekends, it gets packed with locals, so try for a weekday morning.
- Tellaro: If you have time, wander into this tiny fishing village often ranked as one of Italy’s most beautiful “borghi.”
Why this trip works
This route perfectly balances the rugged adventure of the Garfagnana with the refined beauty of the coast. It’s a full day, but you’ll see a side of Tuscany that 90% of travelers miss.
Where to Stay for This Adventure
To make the most of this mountain-to-coast route, we recommend basing yourself in the Garfagnana or near the elegant town of Barga. Here are three of our personally-vetted favorites:
- Villa Carla – Exclusive Villa with Hydro-Pool near Castelnuovo: Perfectly positioned for the start of the SP13 drive, this villa offers the rare convenience of being within walking distance of a market town while still feeling like a private retreat.
- Villa Alventura – High-End 3-Bedroom Villa near Barga: A great choice for families or couples seeking a bit more polish. It’s a high-end base that serves as a gateway between the rugged Apuan Alps and the culture of Lucca.
- Villa Rubra – Spacious Villa with Private Pool & Amazing Views: If you want to wake up to the same mountain panoramas you’ll see on your drive, this is the one. It offers the space and “home-from-home” comfort our guests value most.
Why Book Your Tuscany Holiday with Us?
We aren’t just a booking site; we are a family-run business that has lived and worked in Tuscany since 1988. When you choose Friends of Tuscany, you are choosing:
- Deep Local Expertise: We are the oldest agency in the Garfagnana region and personally visit every villa in our portfolio.
- Direct Booking Savings: Booking directly with us ensures you don’t pay the 18–20% service fees charged by platforms like Airbnb or VRBO for the exact same villas.
- Personal Relationships: We know our villa owners personally, which means we can offer honest advice and solve local issues that a computer algorithm simply can’t.
- A “Broker-Protector” Approach: We manage expectations and provide practical, straight-talking advice on everything from road access to the best local seafood.
Ready to plan your authentic Tuscan escape? Browse our full collection of villas here.