We don’t just provide a roof over your head; we want you to have a unique experience. Our family has explored much of this region to find the “hidden” spots that big booking platforms simply don’t know about.
This is our personal itinerary for exploring the “Green Heart of Italy”.
Todi: Hilltop Views and Hidden Cisterns
Todi is a must-visit. It’s authentic, atmospheric, and perfect for a slow afternoon.
Arrival and Parking (The Logistics)
Option 1: Piazza Garibaldi. Follow the street marked ‘centro’ past the Consolazione church. Parking is in the piazza (look for the giant cypress supposedly planted by Garibaldi). Crucial: You must buy your timestamped parking ticket from the corner tabacchi on the piazza.
Option 2: The Funicular (Our favourite). At the Consolazione, follow the “P” signs to the municipal lot. Take your green token with you. The funicular is free, very quick, and drops you right on the main street.
Option 3: Porta Orvietana. Use the elevator (funiculare) from this secure lot to reach the town centre easily.
What to See and Do
The Churches: The first thing you will see is the Church of San Fortunato, patron saint of Todi. This is the Franciscan church of Fra Jacopo di Todi, a medieval poet monk. From there proceed to the Piazza del Popolo. This is the center of town and is dominated by a beautiful cathedral.
Exploring: First thing to do is to walk around the Piazza, look at the view of the countryside, and relax with a cappuccino or gelato at one of the outdoor bars. Stop at the tourist office to find out what is going on in town while you are there. The Duomo should be your next stop, followed by a visit to the Palazzo del Capitano and the Museo Pinacoteca.
Local Tip: Don’t miss the Roman Cisterns hidden beneath the town. They are fascinating, but you really need a proper guide to bring the history to life.
Where to eat
Light Lunch: Try the Pizzeria Cavor just down from Piazza Garibaldi.
Heavier Fare: Go to Ristaurante Umbria (charming characteristic ristorante where they will grill on the open fireplace), Ristorante “Jacapone”, or Hosteria delle Vale which is on the road walking up from the funicular.
Deruta, Torgiano & Assisi
Nearby Assisi you will find Deruta. If you have time you can stop for wine tasting at Torgiano. Or you could break this
up into two days.
1. Deruta (Pottery Capital)
Most of the pottery sold across Italy is made here.
Shopping: We like Terra e Fuoco in the old town—speak to Carla Corna
The Experts: We reccomend Grazia (run by Waldo Grazia). It’s one of the oldest establishments in Italy. Phone ahead (+39 75 97 10 201) and he will organise a tour for you.
The Pottery: Head to the town centre and park and walk around and check out the handmade pottery. Go to the pottery museum if you want. Deruta is where a lot of the pottery sold all over Italy is made. Most of the shops are owned by the potter’s family and deals can be made and they ship things. You can also commission things, for example a platter with your initials or crest on it, or a dinner service.
2. Torgiano (Wine Lovers)
Wine Tasting: Visit Lungarotti Vineyards. Call +39 75 98 86 659 (cantina) or +39 75 988 0200 for the wine tasting (degustazione) as soon as possible (they like a few days notice). They will book you a tour of the cantina where the wine is made and then you have a really fun and informative wine tasting with snacks.
The Museum: There is also a museum if you want to walk through it. They offer a guided museum tour and we thought it took a longer time than our interest though it was very well done. We think it was perfect to taste three wines (they offer two or four as well). Ask them for specific driving directions.
3. Assisi: The Essential Visit
Basilica di San Francesco: Truly special. Look on the internet at Basilica di San Francesco and visit when there is music in the church if you want..
Santa Maria degli Angeli: In the valley below the hill where the Basilica is located is the church, Santa Maria degli Angeli. It is a grand Baroque church built around a tiny little chapel which is where St Francis is meant to have received his calling
Beyond: Carry on from there to Spello, Gubbio, etc. by back roads and spend a day getting lost so to speak in the hilltowns.
In-Depth Guide to Assisi
A visit to Assisi has to be high on everyone’s “to do” list. Get an early start because there are a lot of things to see.
First Stop: A good way to begin is to drive first to Santa Maria dei Angeli which is just off the road leading to Assisi. This visit might help to set up your entire visit to Assisi. At that point you are about 6 km from Assisi. Park as close to the large church as you can, there is a parking lot just in front, which usually isn’t too difficult and it stands out against the skyline.
The Porziuncola: Inside the church you will see the original church of St Francis, Chiesetta della Porziuncola. Inside this little structure, originally a run-down church in an open field area, St Francis (13th c) had a vision from Christ on the cross that told him to ‘rebuild my church!’ Which he thought meant the structure and so he did. But as he worked on renovating country churches, he sang and prayed and preached and he drew followers and so he founded what became the Franciscan Order. This with its Third Order of lay people, and its loving and open teaching actually served to ‘rebuild the Church’ as it drew so many more people to the faith. When Francis died he was canonized (made a saint) very soon after and the pope officiated crediting him with helping to rebuild the Church.
The Death of Francis: The bigger church was built over the tiny original structure (now decorated and renovated) and around the holy spot. Francis requested to die, naked (but his followers did not allow that discomfort) laying on the bare ground, his ‘mother earth’ beside the cherished tiny church where he first received his calling. He died in his forties and gave apologies to his ‘brother body’ for all the privations he had made it suffer. He took the poverty, chastity and obedience to extremes! Just beside the little church there has been built a tiny covering for the spot where Francis is thought to have breathed his last.
Parking and the Basilica
Logistics: From there drive up to Assisi and follow the signs sort of to the left to Parcheggio where you should leave your car, you will see buses and there is an underground parking garage. Take a ticket, keep it with you, and pay at the kiosk when you return. This parking lot is less than 15 minutes from your previous stop.
The Upper Church: Walk up an incline and then go left to the Basilica. The Basilica of St Francis is built on two levels. Begin your tour with a visit to the upper church to see the wonderful frescos attributed to Giotto. The paintings on the lower strip illustrate the major events in the life of St Francis. Above these on the right wall are scenes from the Old Testament, which resonate the life of Francis, a scene of obedience to God like Isaac ready to sacrifice his son over the obedience of Francis who devotes himself to service. On the left wall, the scenes above are from the life of Christ.
Art History: Francis tried his best to emulate the life of Christ and in the later years received the stigmata. These frescoes were crucial to the development of Renaissance painting. At a time when religious painting showed holy figures in a gold background with little interaction, the Assisi paintings show a real and present world with 3D figures that move and interact. In the late 13th/early 14th century, artists came from all over Italy and beyond to see these.
The Crypt: The frescoes were restored after the earthquake of 1998, when conservators from many countries pieced together millions of chips of paint. From the Upper Church proceed to the lower church and crypt where St. Francis is interred. His body was hidden for nearly five hundred years to prevent relics being taken; it was only revealed in 1818. Look for the grate leading a prayer directly down to the relics.
Mt. Subasio and Dining
The Hermitage: If you have time, drive to the north end of Assisi and follow signs to the top of Mt. Subasio for the Eremo delle Carceri (The Hermitage of Carceri). This is the park St. Francis used for prayer. It is so peaceful you can imagine him praying under the trees. From there, you can follow the dirt road over the hill to Spello.
Where to Eat: A longtime favorite on the road to the Eremo is called La Stalla (follow signs for Fontemaggio). It is an informal, authentic place. In cooler months, eat inside under low vaulted space in front of a gigantic hearth. In summer, it is at self-serve tables outside under a vine-covered patio. Very inexpensive and perfect for grilled meats and salads.
Orvieto & The “Dying Town”
Exploration and Sightseeing
Park at Orvieto Scalo and take the funicular up.
The Well: When you exit the funicular station at the top look for The Pozzo di San Patrizio. This is a deep well dug during the reign of Pope Clement VII. It has a unique double helix staircase by Sangallo the Younger (one of only two in the world). There are 248 steps and 70 windows.
Underground and Museums: An unusual hour can be spent visiting “Sottoterraneo,” a network of Etruscan tunnels. There is also a wonderful museum of Etruscan pottery on the main piazza and the Opera del Duomo museum to the right of the cathedral.
The Cathedral: Proceed to the Piazza del Popolo to see the exquisite cathedral. Unusually, Shopping: Standing on the Cathedral steps the road leading off at about ‘2 o’clock’ has lots of shopping and coffee bars. Two or three streets to the left is a road leading to artisan shops.
Where to Eat
Duca di Orvieto: (Via della Pace, 5; +39 763-344663) This restaurant prides itself on growing and raising almost everything they serve on their own farm.
La Pergola: Always good, located on the road leading to artisan shops.
Giglio d’Oro: Right on the Piazza del Duomo (to your left as you face the church). Expensive but amazing service and views if you eat outside (we had Chateabriand and pheasant).
Il Trippini: In Castelo del Lago, five km off the main road leading back to Todi.
Civita di Bagnoregio
Get ready for a very interesting experience. This is a unique hill town with no more than 20 or 30 people living there. You can visit an old olive press for “Bruschetta” or try the Trattoria Antico Forno for a full meal.
Arrival: The road from the west is very picturesque. You can park in a tiny parking lot right next to the Cathedral.
Note: This town has finally been discovered, do not go on a weekend as you may find a crowd. It is not suitable for those who have trouble walking as it is a walk up the road (no cars).
Spello
Enoteca Properzio: For wine lovers, Roberto and Carlo Angelini have remodeled a medieval building to host groups for wine tastings and local delicacies (sausages, olives, cheeses, etc.). The ambiance is fabulous and they can ship your purchases to your doorstep (+39 742 301521; Piazza G. Matteotti 8/10).
Art and Churches: Visit the gallery for the artist Norberto (Via Cavor 61) for his whimsical style. Spello’s historic churches contain world-class medieval paintings still in their original settings. Note how the lighting in the paintings often seems to come from a window that is actually in the church.
Perugia
Arrival: Park below by the station and take the escalator up the hill passing through the Roman
ruins.
Culture: The capital of Umbria and home of Perugini Baci chocolates. Hosts the Eurochocolate festival in mid-October and Umbria Jazz in July.
Ready to book your Umbrian escape?
When you book with us, you aren’t just getting a key; you’re getting 35 years of local knowledge. Our villas are hand-picked for their views and character, and we’re always here to “pick our brains” for advice.
If you are looking for a base to explore this region in total comfort, we recommend the exceptional Alla Collina, a luxury villa near Todi. It features a private pool, domestic help, and even free organic produce from the estate, perfect for a relaxing family stay.
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